Chicken Stock Simplified

I used to think making chicken stock was 1) a pain in the ass, and 2) something only for the hardcore chef.

This probably comes from the fact that I first learned to make stock from a fancy Williams Sonoma cookbook and the instructions involved a precise list of ingredients, including a stewing chicken, and activities like monitoring a simmering pot for a couple of hours on the lookout for any "scum" that might rise to the top and quickly removing it at first sight, then straining it with a cheesecloth (I never have any cheese cloth), then skimming off fat.  While this is probably the correct way to make it if you are running a professional kitchen, it's not very practical.

Once I realized that chicken stock is basically cooking to death some leftover chicken parts and seasonings and then straining it, I now use up every roasted chicken carcass this way.  For some reason, I get satisfaction out of the fact that I've used the whole bird, even the bones (ok, I'm not using the heads, feet, and feathers yet, but give me some time . . .).

So, to break down the process a bit, first take all the usable meat off the chicken and save that for something tasty.  As you're pulling everything off the chicken, take any skin or pockets of fat and get rid of those.  What you'll have left is the bones, some cartiledge, and some tiny bits of chicken stuck to it.  If your chicken came with giblets, you can add these to the pile of bones.  This process does leave you're hands very chickeny, but think of it as a fancy farm-spa treatment.

(Usable chicken in the box on the left, meaty carcass on the right)

At this point, decide if you really have time to make chicken stock.  If you don't, toss the carcass in a bag and toss it in the freezer and deal with it later.

If you do, check the kitchen and garden for things you can season it with.  Anything from this list will do, with the more common ingredients listed first:

• Onions or leeks, any kind
• Carrots
• Celery
• Peppercorns
• Bay Leaves
• Thyme
• Parsley
• Oregano
• Garlic
• Parsnips, turnips or other root vegetables
• Ginger
• Rosemary (go easy on this one)
• Fennel
• Mushrooms
• Tomatoes
• Bell Peppers or chili peppers
• Potato peelings

A great thing about stock is that you can use the peels or leafy tops of the veggies that you wouldn't normally use.  Also, if you have some vegetables that have lost their spark and gone a bit limp, these are fine too.  Just make sure whatever you throw in the pot is clean. In other words, you can empty the fridge and use anything that isn't quite appetizing any more but is still good.  I wouldn't skip the onion, but the rest of the combination changes every time I make it.

I would probably avoid tossing in much cabbage, broccoli, or cauliflower, mainly because the sulfur smell might overpower the rest, but even that's not a hard and fast rule.

Once you've rounded things up, you're ready to toss them in the pot.  You do not need to finely chop anything.  I usually just quarter the onion, chop the rest in a few good chunks, smash a couple garlic cloves with the side of my knife, and toss the herbs in stem and all.

Then, add enough water to your pot to cover everything and bring to a boil.  Once it has boiled, turn the heat down as low as possible, and let it simmer for at least an hour and a half, or up to four hours, depending on your patience and your gas bill.  I usually put the lid on but sometimes I forget.

If you happen to pass by the pot, you can use a spoon or small strainer to scoop off any nasty looking foam (or "scum") that has risen to the top, but as you are probably not on a cooking show, even this step isn't strictly necessary.  Doing so will make your broth clearer and more refined.  Not doing so will keep you saner.

Once it's all done, add at least a teaspoon of salt or so to taste (you can add it up front, but I find it easier to check the taste once the rest is done stewing).  Then pour the broth through a strainer into another pot or a pitcher.  It might be easier to pull some of the big pieces out before straining.  If you're anal, strain it with a cheesecloth.  If not, any mesh strainer will do.  If you don't have a mesh strainer, line a colander (strainer with big holes) with a cloth and strain it through that.

Now you have your own chicken stock.  If you're not going to use it all in the next couple of days, toss the rest in the freezer.  If I'm not planning on making a soup right away, I usually keep a cup on hand in the fridge for rice, curries, simmering vegetables, etc., and freeze the rest.

If you put it in the fridge, you will notice once it's cold that there is a layer of fat on the top.  If you don't like this (or you left some skin in and there's quite a lot), use this opportunity (while it's cold) to scoop it off.

A couple of tips:
1) Don't be greedy.  It's tempting to put one small chicken carcass in a giant pot and fill with water.  This will give you a very weak stock.  If you did this, you can still use it, but if making soup, you might want to cheat a bit and add a touch of chicken bouillon.
2) Be patient.  Too often I try to make the stock in an hour or so and immediately make soup.  Again, the stock turns out weak and then so does the soup.  The best time to make stock is when you're at home doing something else so you can just forget about it for a couple of hours.  Which is why some of my chicken carcasses now live in the freezer until I get the chance . . .